Flew to lovely Phoenix, Arizona for a long-awaited trip to Havasu Falls in the Grand Canyon with my friend Jeff and his gorgeous and amazing partner Rebecca. Those guys have been down there a couple of times (or more), but this was my first time going DOWN INTO the Grand Canyon, must less to Havasu Falls. A series of beautiful and photogenic waterfalls can be found on Havasu Creek, a tributary to the Grand Canyon. The water flows out of limestone, which gives it a surreal blue-green hue. The waterfalls have created large plunge pools that are clear, deep and inviting. People come from around the world to view the waterfalls and Grand Canyon scenery, and swim in the pools. Unfortunately, this included a huge group of unbelievably rude and annoying Japanese tourists that we took great pains to annoy throughout the weekend (but that's another story for another time).
The trailhead is located at the end of Indian Road 18, 60 miles north of the Junction of Road 18 and Hyw 66. The junction is between Seligman and Peach Springs, in northwest Arizona, along the totally cool, very retro Route 66, where we ate at the Roadkill Cafe (on the way in) and a very historical cool little Diner (on the way out). This is a remote area about 235 miles east of Las Vegas, or about 165 miles northwest of Flagstaff, AZ.
The first night we camped at the trailhead (called Hualapai Hilltop) until the next morning when we could hit the trail. During the night an amazing thunderstorm blew up, and even though I got wet (because Jeff abandoned me to put up my tent cover on my own), it was totally cool.
The next morning, we headed down. The 10 mile trail from the trailhead to the campground is steep, particularly on the upper end. It is also rocky and in some spots it is fully exposed to the summer sun. Backpacking here is strenuous, so like many visitors we paid to have our packs carried in by mule trail on packhorses. The Havasupai Indians treat their horses horribly, so if you go, be prepared to be shocked by the lack of concern and disregard for these poor animals.
The area is part of the Havasupai Indian Reservation and is managed by the tribe. I have to admit to a huge culture shock, because the village was horribly slovenly, with trash everywhere and clearly starving horses at every turn. Poverty is one thing, but blatant neglect and intentional disregard is another. It was hard for me to shake off my anger and (I suppose) ethnocentrism, but once we left the village behind I let it go and got into the trip.
We camped next to a creek downriver from the main Havasu Falls, midway to Mooney falls. These falls were really cool, as you had to work your way down a cliff face using ladders and ropes to reach the bottom. From there you can hike a couple of miles down to Beaver Falls, an amazing place to swim and relax, and just generally frolic (if you can avoid the Japanese tourists). Rebecca cooked for us each night, and either rugged camping makes a great sauce, or she is one AMAZING cook (I suspect both).
On the final day (3 days total), Rebecca twisted her ankle and had to fly out via helicopter. I posted the video she made below. I truly enjoyed the hike out with Jeff (and kicked his ass climbing back up to the trailhead!!!), but I think she may have gotten the better deal.
All in all an amazing trip, that you must do at least once in a lifetime. :)
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